Captain's Log
📖 Pilot Bookhistory

Galicia to Lisbon: The Iberian Atlantic Coast

S
S/V Magische Pompoen
·14 April 2026·13 min read·Portugal

| Groceries | €700-1,000 | | Dining out | €900-1,500 | | Museums/attractions | €250-400 | | Miscellaneous | €200-300 | | TOTAL STAGE 3 | €4,150-5,900 |


STAGE 4: SPANISH MEDITERRANEAN

Gibraltar to Barcelona

Distance: ~550 NM
Duration: 4-6 weeks
Character: Costa del Sol glamour, tapas culture, warm water finally!
Daily sailing: 3-5 hours max


Leg 4.1: Gibraltar to Estepona (25 NM, 3-4 hours)

Enter Mediterranean!

ESTEPONA, SPAIN [QR-544]

Marina: Puerto Deportivo Estepona
Coordinates: 36°25'N, 5°09'W
Berth Cost: €40-55/night

Charming white village, less touristy than Marbella

🍴 El Pescador [QR-545] - Beachfront seafood, €30-50
🍴 La Escollera [QR-546] - Chiringuito (beach shack), fresh fish, €20-35

Old Town [QR-547] - White-washed streets, flower pots
Beach [QR-548] - Long promenade


Leg 4.2: Estepona to Puerto Banús/Marbella (20 NM, 3 hours)

PUERTO BANÚS, SPAIN [QR-549]

Marina: Puerto José Banús
Coordinates: 36°29'N, 4°57'W
Berth Cost: €80-150/night (EXPENSIVE - yacht playground)

Luxury marina, superyachts, glitz

🍷 Dani García [QR-550] - 3 Michelin stars (in Marbella), €250-350
🍴 La Sala by the Sea [QR-551] - Beach club restaurant, €40-65
🍺 Sinatra's Bar [QR-552] - Marina views, cocktails, €12-18

Shopping: High-end boutiques (Gucci, Dior, etc.)
Beach Clubs: Nikki Beach [QR-553], Ocean Club [QR-554]

Option: Anchor out and dinghy in to save money!

Stay 1-2 nights - Worth seeing the scene once


Leg 4.3: Puerto Banús to Málaga (35 NM, 5 hours)

MÁLAGA, SPAIN [QR-555]

Marina: Puerto de Málaga (Real Club Mediterráneo)
Coordinates: 36°43'N, 4°25'W
Berth Cost: €45-60/night

Costa del Sol capital, Picasso's birthplace, cultural city

Where to Eat:

🍷 José Carlos García [QR-556]

  • Michelin-starred
  • Port location
  • Creative Mediterranean
  • Cost: €90-130

🍴 El Pimpi [QR-557]

  • Málaga institution
  • Traditional tapas, great atmosphere
  • Cost: €20-35

🍴 Uvedoble [QR-558]

  • Taberna, inventive tapas
  • Cost: €25-40

🍺 Bodega El Pimpi [QR-559]

  • Historic bodega, wine barrels signed by celebrities
  • Cost: €15-30

What to See:

Museo Picasso Málaga [QR-560]

  • Picasso collection in his birthplace
  • Entry: €9
  • Allow 2 hours

Picasso Birthplace Museum [QR-561]

  • Where he was born
  • Entry: €3
  • Allow 45 minutes

Alcazaba [QR-562]

  • Moorish fortress palace
  • Entry: €3.50
  • Allow 1.5 hours
  • Stunning views

Gibralfaro Castle [QR-563]

  • Above Alcazaba
  • Panoramic views
  • Entry: €3.50

Cathedral [QR-564]

  • "La Manquita" (the one-armed lady - missing tower)
  • Entry: €8

Mercado Central de Atarazanas [QR-565]

  • Historic market
  • Fresh produce, tapas stalls
  • Free

Málaga Old Town [QR-566]

  • Pedestrian streets, tapas bars
  • Free to wander

Beach: Playa de la Malagueta [QR-567]

Provisioning: El Corte Inglés [QR-568], Carrefour [QR-569]

Stay 2-3 nights - Cultural city, great food, Picasso heritage


Leg 4.4: Málaga to Nerja (30 NM, 4-5 hours)

NERJA, SPAIN [QR-570]

  • Pretty coastal town
  • Marina: €40-50/night
  • 🍴 Restaurant 34 [QR-571] - International, sea views, €30-50
  • Nerja Caves [QR-572] - Impressive stalactites, €12
  • Balcón de Europa [QR-573] - Viewpoint over sea

Leg 4.5: Nerja to Almuñécar (25 NM, 3-4 hours)

ALMUÑÉCAR, SPAIN [QR-574]

  • Small resort
  • Marina: €35-45/night
  • 🍴 El Chaleco [QR-575] - Seafood, €25-40

Leg 4.6: Almuñécar to Motril (15 NM, 2-3 hours)

MOTRIL, SPAIN [QR-576]

  • Working port, less touristy
  • Marina: €30-40/night
  • 🍴 Tropical [QR-577] - Seafood, €25-35

Leg 4.7: Motril to Almerimar (60 NM, 8 hours - long)

Or split: Motril → Adra (30 NM) → Almerimar (30 NM)

ALMERIMAR, SPAIN [QR-578]

  • Modern marina
  • Marina: €35-45/night
  • Golf resort area

Leg 4.8: Almerimar to Almería (30 NM, 4-5 hours)

ALMERÍA, SPAIN [QR-579]

Marina: Club de Mar
Coordinates: 36°50'N, 2°28'W
Berth Cost: €35-45/night

Moorish Alcazaba, desert scenery

🍴 Restaurante Valentín [QR-580] - Seafood, €30-45

Alcazaba of Almería [QR-581] - Massive Moorish fortress, €1.50, views
Cathedral [QR-582] - Fortress-like, €5

Stay 1-2 nights


Leg 4.9: Almería to Águilas (60 NM, 8 hours)

ÁGUILAS, SPAIN [QR-583]

  • Small fishing town
  • Marina: €30-40/night
  • 🍴 La Barra [QR-584] - Tapas, seafood, €20-35

Leg 4.10: Águilas to Cartagena (50 NM, 7 hours)

CARTAGENA, SPAIN [QR-585]

Marina: Real Club de Regatas
Coordinates: 37°36'N, 0°59'W
Berth Cost: €38-48/night

Ancient Carthaginian city (227 BC), Roman ruins, naval history

🍴 Magoga [QR-586] - Michelin star, €85-120
🍴 La Catedral [QR-587] - Tapas bar, excellent, €20-30

Roman Theatre Museum [QR-588] - Stunning Roman theatre, €6
National Museum of Underwater Archaeology [QR-589] - Phoenician & Roman shipwrecks, €3
Naval Museum [QR-590] - Spanish Navy history, €3

Stay 2 nights - Fascinating history


Leg 4.11: Cartagena to Alicante (60 NM, 8 hours)

ALICANTE, SPAIN [QR-591]

Marina: Real Club de Regatas de Alicante
Coordinates: 38°20'N, 0°29'W
Berth Cost: €40-55/night

Major city, castle, beach promenade

🍷 Monastrell [QR-592] - Michelin star, creative, €85-120
🍴 La Taberna del Gourmet [QR-593] - Tapas, €25-40

Santa Bárbara Castle [QR-594] - Hilltop fortress, panoramic views, free entry
Explanada de España [QR-595] - Iconic tiled promenade
MARQ Archaeological Museum [QR-596] - Excellent, €3

Stay 2 nights


Leg 4.12: Alicante to Altea (30 NM, 4-5 hours)

ALTEA, SPAIN [QR-597]

  • Beautiful white village
  • Marina: €40-50/night
  • 🍴 Oustau [QR-598] - Michelin star, French-Mediterranean, €90-130
  • Old Town [QR-599] - White-washed, blue-domed church, charming

Leg 4.13: Altea to Calpe (10 NM, 1.5-2 hours)

CALPE, SPAIN [QR-600]

  • Dramatic Peñón de Ifach rock
  • Marina: €38-48/night
  • 🍴 Orobianco [QR-601] - Italian, €30-45
  • Peñón de Ifach [QR-602] - Hike the rock, stunning, free

Leg 4.14: Calpe to Dénia (30 NM, 4-5 hours)

DÉNIA, SPAIN [QR-603]

Marina: Marina de Dénia
Coordinates: 38°50'N, 0°07'E
Berth Cost: €40-50/night

Charming town, ferry to Balearics

🍷 Quique Dacosta [QR-604]

  • 3 Michelin stars
  • One of Spain's best
  • €250-350
  • Book months ahead

🍴 Casa Sebastián [QR-605] - Traditional seafood, €30-50

Castle [QR-606] - Hilltop castle, views, €3

Stay 2 nights - Beautiful town, potential side trip to Ibiza/Formentera by ferry if time


Leg 4.15: Dénia to Valencia (70 NM - SPLIT)

Leg A: Dénia to Gandía (20 NM, 3 hours)

GANDÍA, SPAIN [QR-607]

  • Beach resort
  • Marina: €35-45/night

Leg B: Gandía to Valencia (50 NM, 7 hours)

VALENCIA, SPAIN [QR-608]

Marina: Marina Real Juan Carlos I
Coordinates: 39°27'N, 0°19'W
Berth Cost: €45-60/night

Spain's third-largest city, paella birthplace, City of Arts and Sciences

Where to Eat:

🍷 Ricard Camarena [QR-609]

  • 2 Michelin stars
  • Modern Valencian
  • Cost: €180-250

🍷 Riff [QR-610]

  • Michelin star
  • Cost: €90-130

🍴 La Pepica [QR-611]

  • Famous paella restaurant
  • Beachfront (since 1898)
  • Try: Paella Valenciana
  • Cost: €35-55

🍴 Casa Montaña [QR-612]

  • Historic tapas bar (1836)
  • Cost: €25-40

🍴 Central Market Bars [QR-613]

  • Various stalls, fresh everything
  • Cost: €15-30

What to See:

City of Arts and Sciences [QR-614]

  • Futuristic complex by Calatrava
  • Oceanogràfic (aquarium): €34
  • Hemisfèric (IMAX): €9
  • Science Museum: €9
  • Allow full day
  • Stunning architecture

Central Market (Mercado Central) [QR-615]

  • Spectacular Art Nouveau building
  • Fresh produce, tapas stalls
  • Free to enter
  • Don't miss

Cathedral [QR-616]

  • Claims to have Holy Grail
  • Climb Miguelete tower for views
  • Entry: €8

Lonja de la Seda [QR-617]

  • Gothic Silk Exchange (UNESCO)
  • Entry: €2
  • Stunning hall

Bioparc [QR-618]

  • Innovative zoo
  • African focus
  • Entry: €27

Turia Gardens [QR-619]

  • 9 km park in old riverbed
  • Free, bike or walk

Beach: Playa de la Malvarrosa [QR-620]

Provisioning: Mercado Central [QR-621], Carrefour [QR-622]
Repair: Marina facilities excellent [QR-623]

Stay 3-4 nights - Major city, excellent food, impressive architecture


Leg 4.16: Valencia to Castellón (50 NM, 7 hours)

CASTELLÓN DE LA PLANA, SPAIN [QR-624]

  • Marina: €35-45/night
  • 🍴 Tasca del Puerto [QR-625] - Seafood, €25-40

Leg 4.17: Castellón to Tarragona (80 NM - SPLIT)

Leg A: Castellón to Vinaròs (40 NM, 5-6 hours)

VINARÒS, SPAIN [QR-626]

  • Fishing town
  • Marina: €30-40/night
  • 🍴 El Langostino de Oro [QR-627] - Langostinos, €30-45

Leg B: Vinaròs to Tarragona (40 NM, 5-6 hours)

TARRAGONA, SPAIN [QR-628]

Marina: Real Club Náutico Tarragona
Coordinates: 41°07'N, 1°15'E
Berth Cost: €40-50/night

Ancient Roman city (UNESCO), impressive ruins

🍴 AQ [QR-629] - Michelin star, €90-130
🍴 Les Coques [QR-630] - Modern Catalan, €80-110

Roman Amphitheatre [QR-631] - Overlooking sea, €3.30
Aqueduct (Pont del Diable) [QR-632] - Roman aqueduct, free
Cathedral [QR-633] - Gothic/Romanesque mix, €5
Archaeological Walk [QR-634] - Roman walls, free

Stay 2 nights - Impressive Roman heritage


Leg 4.18: Tarragona to Vilanova i la Geltrú (25 NM, 3-4 hours)

VILANOVA I LA GELTRÚ, SPAIN [QR-635]

  • Marina: €40-50/night
  • 🍴 Peix & Brases [QR-636] - Seafood, €30-50

Leg 4.19: Vilanova to Barcelona (20 NM, 3 hours)

BARCELONA, SPAIN [QR-637]

Marina: Port Vell (OneOcean Port Vell) or Port Olímpic
Coordinates: 41°22'N, 2°11'E
Berth Cost: €60-100/night (expensive, city center) or €45-65 (Port Olímpic)

Catalonia's capital, Gaudí architecture, world-class culture and food

Where to Eat:

🍷 Lasarte [QR-638]

  • 3 Michelin stars (Martin Berasategui)
  • Exceptional
  • Cost: €250-350
  • Book far ahead

🍷 Disfrutar [QR-639]

  • 3 Michelin stars
  • Creative, playful
  • Cost: €250-350
  • Book far ahead

🍷 ABaC [QR-640]

  • 3 Michelin stars
  • Cost: €250-350

🍷 Moments [QR-641]

  • 2 Michelin stars
  • Catalan fine dining
  • Cost: €180-250

🍴 Tickets Bar [QR-642]

  • By Adrià brothers
  • Creative tapas
  • Book ahead
  • Cost: €60-90

🍴 Cal Pep [QR-643]

  • Barcelona institution
  • Tapas bar, no reservations
  • Arrive early
  • Cost: €40-60

🍴 Cervecería Catalana [QR-644]

  • Excellent tapas
  • No reservations
  • Cost: €25-40

🍴 La Boqueria Market [QR-645]

  • Famous market on Las Ramblas
  • Food stalls inside
  • Cost: €10-25

What to See & Do:

Sagrada Família [QR-646]

  • Gaudí's masterpiece basilica
  • Still under construction
  • Entry: €33, BOOK WEEKS AHEAD
  • Allow 2 hours
  • Absolutely essential

Park Güell [QR-647]

  • Gaudí's mosaic park
  • City views
  • Entry: €13, book ahead
  • Allow 2 hours

Casa Batlló [QR-648]

  • Gaudí house
  • Entry: €35
  • Allow 1.5 hours

Casa Milà (La Pedrera) [QR-649]

  • Another Gaudí house
  • Rooftop views
  • Entry: €28
  • Allow 1.5 hours

Gothic Quarter (Barri Gòtic) [QR-650]

  • Medieval old town
  • Cathedral, narrow streets
  • Free to wander
  • Allow half day

Las Ramblas [QR-651]

  • Famous boulevard
  • Walk from port to Plaça Catalunya
  • Free (watch for pickpockets)

Montjuïc [QR-652]

  • Hill with castle, gardens, museums
  • Cable car or funicular
  • Olympic Stadium
  • Allow half day

Picasso Museum [QR-653]

  • Early Picasso works
  • Entry: €15
  • Book ahead
  • Allow 2 hours

Barcelona Cathedral [QR-654]

  • Gothic cathedral
  • Free entry (€10 for rooftop)

Barceloneta Beach [QR-655]

  • City beach
  • Chiringuitos (beach bars)
  • Free

Magic Fountain of Montjuïc [QR-656]

  • Light and water show
  • Free
  • Check schedule

Camp Nou [QR-657]

  • FC Barcelona stadium
  • Tours available
  • €30

Provisioning:

  • Mercadona [QR-658]: Supermarket chain
  • Carrefour [QR-659]: Multiple locations
  • La Boqueria [QR-660]: Fresh market

Repair Facilities:

  • OneOcean Port Vell Services [QR-661]: Full service

Stay 4-7 nights - Barcelona deserves time. World-class city with incredible architecture, food, culture. Many cruisers spend a week or more here.


STAGE 4 COMPLETE: Gibraltar to Barcelona

Distance: ~550 NM
Time: 4-6 weeks

Stage 4 Financial Summary:

CategoryCost (40ft, 2 people)
Marina fees (30 nights)€1,250-1,700
Fuel (550 NM)€700-850
Groceries€750-1,000
Dining out (Spain is excellent!)€1,200-2,000
Museums/attractions€350-500
Miscellaneous€200-300
TOTAL STAGE 4€4,450-6,350

STAGE 5: FRENCH & ITALIAN RIVIERA

Barcelona to Rome (Civitavecchia)

Distance: ~650 NM
Duration: 4-8 weeks
Character: Jet-set marinas, world-class cuisine, Renaissance art, glamorous Mediterranean
Daily sailing: 3-5 hours max


Leg 5.1: Barcelona to Arenys de Mar (25 NM, 3-4 hours)

ARENYS DE MAR, SPAIN [QR-662]

  • Marina: €35-45/night
  • 🍴 Hispania [QR-663] - Traditional Catalan, €50-75

Leg 5.2: Arenys to Port de la Selva (70 NM - SPLIT)

Leg A: Arenys to Llançà (50 NM, 7 hours)

LLANÇÀ, SPAIN [QR-664]

  • Small port near French border
  • Marina: €35-45/night

Leg B: Llançà to Port de la Selva (20 NM, 3 hours)

PORT DE LA SELVA, SPAIN [QR-665]

  • Beautiful bay
  • Marina: €35-45/night
  • Sant Pere de Rodes Monastery [QR-666] - Hilltop, stunning views

Leg 5.3: Port de la Selva to Port-Vendres, France (25 NM, 3-4 hours)

Cross into France!

PORT-VENDRES, FRANCE [QR-667]

  • Small fishing port
  • Marina: €35-45/night
  • 🍴 La Côte Vermeille [QR-668] - Seafood, €35-50

Leg 5.4: Port-Vendres to Sète (80 NM - SPLIT)

Leg A: Port-Vendres to Port-la-Nouvelle (40 NM, 5-6 hours)

PORT-LA-NOUVELLE, FRANCE [QR-669]

  • Working port
  • Marina: €30-40/night

Leg B: Port-la-Nouvelle to Sète (40 NM, 5-6 hours)

SÈTE, FRANCE [QR-670]

Marina: Port de Plaisance
Coordinates: 43°24'N, 3°42'E
Berth Cost: €38-50/night

"Venice of Languedoc," canals, fishing heritage

🍴 La Palangrotte [QR-671] - Seafood, €40-65
🍴 Chez Loulou [QR-672] - Tielle (local octopus pie), €20-30

Canal walks, colorful buildings
Beach: Plage de la Corniche


Leg 5.5: Sète to Port-Camargue (40 NM, 5-6 hours)

PORT-CAMARGUE, FRANCE [QR-673]

  • Large marina
  • Marina: €40-50/night
  • Camargue region - Wild horses, flamingos, rice paddies

Leg 5.6: Port-Camargue to Port-Saint-Louis-du-Rhône (30 NM, 4 hours)

PORT-SAINT-LOUIS-DU-RHÔNE, FRANCE [QR-674]

  • Rhône River mouth
  • Marina: €30-40/night
  • Gateway to river route to Lyon (if desired)

Leg 5.7: Port-Saint-Louis to Marseille (40 NM, 5-6 hours)

MARSEILLE, FRANCE [QR-675]

Marina: Vieux Port or Frioul archipelago
Coordinates: 43°17'N, 5°22'E
Berth Cost: €50-70/night (Vieux Port pricey, central)

France's oldest city (600 BC), multicultural, bouillabaisse capital

Where to Eat:

🍷 Le Petit Nice [QR-676]

  • 3 Michelin stars
  • Seafood, stunning location
  • Cost: €300-400
  • Book far ahead

🍷 AM par Alexandre Mazzia [QR-677]

  • 3 Michelin stars
  • Creative, unique
  • Cost: €250-350

🍴 Le Miramar [QR-678]

  • Famous bouillabaisse
  • Vieux Port location
  • Try: Traditional bouillabaisse (must order 24h ahead)
  • Cost: €70-90 per person for bouillabaisse

🍴 Chez Fonfon [QR-679]

  • Another bouillabaisse institution
  • Cost: €65-85

🍴 Le Café des Épices [QR-680]

  • Modern bistro
  • Cost: €35-50

What to See:

Notre-Dame de la Garde [QR-681]

  • Basilica on hilltop
  • Panoramic views
  • Free entry
  • Essential Marseille experience

MuCEM [QR-682]

  • Museum of Mediterranean Civilizations
  • Modern architecture
  • Entry: €11
  • Allow 2 hours

Le Panier [QR-683]

  • Old town, narrow streets
  • Colorful, artsy
  • Free to wander

Calanques [QR-684]

  • Dramatic fjord-like inlets
  • Boat tours or hike
  • Stunning natural beauty

Château d'If [QR-685]

  • Island fortress (Count of Monte Cristo)
  • Ferry + entry: €17
  • Allow half day

Vieux Port [QR-686]

  • Old harbor, fish market (morning)
  • Free

Provisioning: Carrefour [QR-687], market stalls at Vieux Port

Stay 2-3 nights - Gritty but fascinating city, incredible food


Leg 5.8: Marseille to Cassis (15 NM, 2-3 hours)

CASSIS, FRANCE [QR-688]

  • Charming port, calanques
  • Marina: €50-65/night
  • 🍴 La Villa Madie [QR-689] - Michelin star, seafood, €90-130
  • Calanque tours - Boat trips into dramatic inlets

Leg 5.9: Cassis to Toulon (25 NM, 3-4 hours)

TOULON, FRANCE [QR-690]

  • Major naval base
  • Marina: €40-50/night
  • Cable car [QR-691] - Mount Faron, views, €9

Leg 5.10: Toulon to Porquerolles (20 NM, 3 hours)

PORQUEROLLES, FRANCE [QR-692]

Island harbor
Coordinates: 43°00'N, 6°12'E
Berth Cost: €45-60/night

Car-free island paradise, pristine beaches

🍴 L'Oustaou de Diou [QR-693] - Provençal, €40-60

Beaches: Plage Notre Dame, Plage d'Argent - stunning
Bike rental - Explore island
Fort Sainte-Agathe [QR-694] - Views

Stay 2 nights - Paradise island, relax

From From the Lights of Bifröst to the Dawn of Ionia · S/V Magische Pompoen.