Passau to Linz — Baroque Sorrow on the Danube — Captain's Log

Prices reasonable

Provisions: Excellent for Balkan capital:

Supermarkets: Maxi, Mercator, Lidl (taxi/bus to city)
Zeleni Venac Market (famous green market) - produce, meats, cheeses, local products
Last major provisioning before Romania (430 km) - stock up
Serbian products excellent: ajvar (pepper spread), kajmak (dairy spread), rakija (brandy), wines (surprisingly good), bread, cheeses

Dining [QR-088, 089]:

[QR-088] "?" Restaurant (Znak Pitanja): Oldest in Belgrade (1823), near Kalemegdan, traditional Serbian (Karađorđeva šnicla, ćevapi), historic interior, €15-25
[QR-089] Sakura: Ada Ciganlija island, international/Asian/Serbian mix, outdoor terrace, €12-20

Belgrade Highlights:

Kalemegdan Fortress:

Massive fortress at Sava-Danube confluence
Free entry
Layers of history (Celtic, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman, Austrian)
Excellent river views
War museum
Popular park (locals gather evenings)
Don't miss sunset from fortress walls

Old Town (Stari Grad):

Knez Mihailova Street (pedestrian shopping)
Republic Square
National Museum

Bohemian Quarter (Skadarlija):

Cobblestone street, bohemian atmosphere
Restaurants, kafanas (taverns), live music

Nightlife:

Belgrade famous for nightlife (clubs, "splavovi" - floating river clubs)
Vibrant, late-night culture

Cultural Notes:

Language: Serbian (Cyrillic primarily, Latin also); English moderate in tourist areas
Currency: Serbian Dinar; euros accepted in tourist areas but dinar preferred
People: Warm, hospitable, proud, direct; genuine welcome
Recent History: Respectful about 1990s wars and NATO bombing - living memories

Practical Belgrade Tasks:

Weather check: Iron Gates gorge and Romania
Boat inspection: All systems - leaving major cities behind
Provisions: 2-3 weeks until major reprovisioning
Cash: Withdraw dinars and euros
Charts: Iron Gates / Romania
Fuel: Top tanks
Rest: Last major city until Galați, Romania (1,000+ km)

SERBIA TO ROMANIA - THE IRON GATES

Days 14-17: Belgrade to Iron Gates (via Ram, Donji Milanovac)

Day 17: The Iron Gates Transit - Most Dramatic Section

IRON GATES (Đerdap) - Where Danube Cuts Through Carpathians

What is it? The Iron Gates is where the Danube cuts through the Carpathian Mountains, creating spectacular gorge with limestone cliffs rising 300+ meters from water. For millennia, this was the Danube's most dangerous section - narrow, rocky, violent rapids. Roman Emperor Trajan built road carved into cliffsides (remnants visible).

1960s-70s: Yugoslavia and Romania built two massive hydroelectric dams, flooded rapids, raised water 35 meters, created huge locks. Gorge now navigable but remains spectacular.

Navigation:

Iron Gates II Lock (km 863):

Smaller lock (27m drop)
Usually pass without major wait

The Gorge (km 863-943):

Spectacular scenery - sheer limestone cliffs, forests, eagles
Decebalus Rex (km 953, Romanian side): Massive rock carving of ancient Dacian king face (2004, 43m high) - unmissable
Deep water (50+ meters)
Strong current (up to 8 km/h)

Iron Gates I Lock (km 943) - THE BIG ONE:

Massive lock chamber - 34-meter lift (one of Europe's largest)
Commercial traffic priority - pleasure boats often wait
VHF Contact Required: Ch. 16, then working channel
Waiting: 30 minutes to 3 hours depending on traffic
Lock Fee: ~€20-30
Process:
- Radio contact 10 km upstream
- Enter when green light
- Secure to floating bollards
- 34m lift takes ~15 minutes
- Impressive experience

Serbia-Romania Border:

At lock (km 943)
Exit Serbia, Enter Romania

ROMANIA ENTRY PROCEDURES

At Turnu Severin [QR-093] (first Romanian town, km 930):

Required:

Passport Control: Port border police
Vessel Documentation
Crew List
Duration: 30-60 minutes, straightforward
Romania: EU member (2007), not Schengen - passport control exists
Currency: Romanian Leu (RON); €1 ≈ 4.97 RON; euros accepted in tourist areas; ATMs available

Turnu Severin Marina:

Basic dock, €10/night
Fuel available
Small supermarket

ROMANIAN DANUBE - The Long River

Turnu Severin to Galați (1,000 km, 2-3 weeks)

Overview: Romania's Danube is long, increasingly rural, progressively remote. Flows through Wallachian Plain (southern Romania) - flat agricultural land, wetlands, occasional towns.

Expect:

Marinas: Basic town docks, often just riverbank moorings
Costs: €8-15/night (Romania very inexpensive)
Facilities: Water usually available, electricity variable, WiFi rare
Provisions: Small village shops adequate; stock up in larger towns
Fuel: Available in towns (arrange through harbor master)
Repairs: Very limited outside major towns; DIY or wait for Galați
Language: Romanian (Latin-based but unique); minimal English
People: Very hospitable, curious about foreign boats, helpful

Major Romanian Danube Towns: (Distances from Turnu Severin, km 930)

Calafat (km 795, 135 km) - Small, basic dock, fuel, provisions
Corabia (km 624, 306 km) - Larger, better facilities
Giurgiu (km 493, 437 km) - Port opposite Bulgaria, 60 km from Bucharest
Călăraşi (km 370, 560 km) - Larger, better facilities
Cernavodă (km 300, 630 km) - Danube-Black Sea Canal junction - DECISION POINT
Brăila (km 170, 760 km) - Major port, good facilities
Galați (km 145, 785 km) - Last major city before delta

Navigation Strategy:

Daily: 80-120 km typical
Flexibility essential
Stock up in larger towns
Fill tanks whenever fuel available
Plan periodic 2-night rest stops

Typical Daily Pattern:

Departure: 07:00-08:00
Navigation: 6-9 hours motoring
Arrival: 15:00-17:00
Evening: Walk village, simple restaurant, early bed
Costs: €8-15 (marina), €10-15 (dinner for two), €30-40 (fuel)

CERNAVODĂ DECISION POINT (km 300)

Two Routes to Black Sea:

OPTION A: Continue on Danube (RECOMMENDED)

145 km more to Tulcea (delta entrance)
70+ km through delta to Sulina (Black Sea)
Total: 215+ km, 2-3 days
Experience: Full Danube experience, delta wilderness

OPTION B: Danube-Black Sea Canal

64 km direct canal to Constanța (Black Sea port)
Total: 64 km, 1 day
Bypass: Delta entirely

RECOMMENDATION: Danube Route - You've come this far, experience the delta

Galați [QR-104] (km 145) - CRITICAL STOP (1-2 nights)

Why Galați Matters: Last major city before delta, final opportunity for comprehensive provisioning/fuel/repairs before delta and Black Sea crossing.

Galați:

Location: River-km 145
Coordinates: 45.4350°N, 28.0450°E
City: 300,000 people, industrial port
Marina: Yacht club / port facilities, €12-18/night
Facilities: Good - water, electricity, WiFi, laundry, fuel

Repair [QR-105]:

Basic boatyard near port
Engine service (limited brands)
Do necessary repairs here - next opportunity Constanța or Istanbul

Provisions - CRITICAL: Last major provisioning before Black Sea crossing (280+ NM)

Stock for: