Linz to Vienna — Memory of a River — Captain's Log

Delta transit (2-3 days)
Small coastal towns (minimal facilities)
Black Sea crossing (2-4 days)
Buffer for weather delays
Budget 1-2 weeks provisions

Supermarkets: Kaufland, Carrefour, Lidl

Tasks at Galați:

Comprehensive provisioning (1-2 weeks)
Fuel tanks FULL (diesel + jerry cans if carrying)
Water tanks full
Boat inspection (all systems)
Weather routing (Black Sea forecasts)
Charts (Delta and Black Sea)
Safety equipment check
Rest crew

DANUBE DELTA TO BLACK SEA

Galați → Tulcea → Sulina → Black Sea (145 km, 2-3 days)

Danube Delta Overview: UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of Europe's largest wetlands, paradise for wildlife. Navigationally complex, shallow outside marked channels.

Three Main Channels at Tulcea:

Chilia (north) - Shallowest, borders Ukraine, not recommended
Sulina (central) - ★ MAIN CHANNEL, RECOMMENDED
Sfântu Gheorghe (south) - Medium, shallower, risky

RECOMMENDATION: Sulina Channel - Maintained 7+ meters depth, marked with buoys, reliable

Day 31: Galați to Tulcea (70 km, 5-6 hours)

Tulcea [QR-106] (km 72) - Delta Gateway

Tulcea is last town before delta proper, where channels split, final preparations point.

Tulcea Marina:

Location: River-km 72, at three-channel split
Coordinates: 45.1775°N, 28.8050°E
Facilities: Basic - water, electricity (limited), WiFi (limited), fuel
Cost: €10-15/night

Important Services:

Delta Information Center: Channel advice, conditions
Sulina Channel Charts: Essential
Delta Pilot Services: Available if desired (~€100-150 Tulcea-Sulina, not required)
Fuel: Fill tanks here (no fuel in delta)
Provisions: Stock up (Sulina very limited)

Dining [QR-107]:

Waterfront fish restaurants, fresh Danube fish, €8-15
Try: Ciorbă de pește (Romanian fish soup)

Delta Wildlife:

300+ bird species
White pelicans (colonies visible)
Cormorants, herons, egrets, eagles
Best viewing: early morning, late afternoon
Bring binoculars

Day 32: Tulcea to Sulina (75 km, 6-8 hours) - THE DELTA ★★★★★

Morning Departure - EARLY: 06:30-07:00. Early for wildlife viewing.

Sulina Channel Navigation:

Width: 100-200 meters
Depth: 7-8 meters IN MARKED CHANNEL (stay in channel!)
Markers: Red/green buoys mark clearly
Sides: Very shallow (1-2m) - DO NOT LEAVE CHANNEL
Current: 3-4 km/h with you
Traffic: Occasional small push-boats, tourist boats

The Delta Experience:

For 75 km, you motor through one of Europe's last wildernesses:

Reed beds (Phragmites) form walls on both sides
Channels branch (stay in main Sulina channel)
Lakes visible through reeds
Wildlife everywhere: Pelicans flying in formation, herons, cormorants, eagles circling
Floating reed islands drift
Fishing villages occasional - simple wooden houses
Silence - just engine, birds, reeds rustling

Navigation Discipline:

STAY IN MARKED CHANNEL - cannot emphasize enough
Watch depth sounder - if drops below 5m, you're leaving channel
Follow markers - red on starboard going downstream
Speed: 5-7 knots (no wake zone, respect wildlife)
Slow for pelican flocks

No Intermediate Stops: No marinas between Tulcea and Sulina. Transit in one day.

Pack Lunch

Sulina [QR-108] (km 0) - BLACK SEA GATEWAY

Sulina sits at absolute end of Danube - km 0, where river meets Black Sea. Small town (3,000), historic port, end of line, edge of Europe. End-of-world feel - remote, windswept, beautiful.

History: 19th-century international port (European Danube Commission 1856-1921), multicultural past, now sleepy fishing town.

Sulina Marina:

Location: Km 0, Black Sea entrance
Coordinates: 45.1550°N, 29.3614°E
Facilities: Basic - water, electricity (variable), no WiFi, fuel (arrange through locals)
Depth: 3-4 meters
Cost: €12-15/night

Town:

Small, end-of-line atmosphere
Historic lighthouse (1870s)
International cemetery (19th-century multinational graves)
Beach (sandy Black Sea)
Few shops (small supermarket, bakery)

Provisions: Very limited - you should have stocked in Galați/Tulcea

Dining [QR-109]: Jean Bart Restaurant: Waterfront, fish specialties (Danube and Black Sea fish), simple Romanian, €10-18

BLACK SEA PREPARATION - CRITICAL

Sulina is your staging point. DO NOT LEAVE until weather favorable.

Black Sea - The Water That Earned Its Reputation

The Black Sea's name isn't romantic branding - it's a warning. Ancient Greeks called it "Axeinos Pontos" (Inhospitable Sea) before optimistically renaming it "Euxeinos Pontos" (Hospitable Sea). It didn't help. The Black Sea has sunk more ships than seas twice its size.

Why the Black Sea is Different:

Weather systems roar across steppes with nothing to slow them
Goes from flat calm to Force 7 in hours
Relatively shallow = steeper, nastier waves
Fewer safe harbors on western coast
Force 5+ feels genuinely challenging

BUT - in good weather, perfectly manageable.

Summer (June-September):

Prevailing: SW 10-20 knots (sailable)
Generally stable 3-5 day weather windows
Afternoon sea breezes can build; thunderstorms possible
Best: Morning departures, watch forecasts

Avoid: October-April (NE gales common, storm frequency high, cold, dangerous)

Forecast Sources:

Windy.com (excellent)
PredictWind (routing)
Turkish/Bulgarian/Romanian coast guard
VHF weather broadcasts
Use multiple sources

Route Options:

OPTION A: Coastal Route (RECOMMENDED)

Follow Romanian/Bulgarian/Turkish coast
Harbor every 20-30 NM
If weather deteriorates, duck in
320 NM, 3-4 days
Safer, flexible

OPTION B: Direct Route (experienced only)

Direct to Bosphorus
280 NM, 36-48 hours continuous
Limited escape options
Only stable weather

RECOMMENDATION: Coastal Route for first Black Sea crossing

BLACK SEA CROSSING - COASTAL ROUTE

Day 33: Sulina to Constanța (60 NM, 8-12 hours)

Departure from Sulina:

Wait for: SW winds <15 knots, stable forecast 24+ hours
Early morning (05:00-06:00)
Stay 3-5 NM offshore

Constanța [QR-110] - Romania's Black Sea Capital

Tomis Marina:

Modern facility, 200+ berths
Excellent: water, electricity (16A), WiFi, fuel, laundry, security
€25-30/night
English spoken

Why Stop:

Rest after first Black Sea leg
Excellent provisioning (last Romanian city)
Repair facilities [QR-111]
Weather check before Bulgaria
City attractions

Rest day option: 1-2 nights - recover, check boat, wait for perfect weather

Days 34-37: Constanța to Turkey (via Balchik, Varna, Nesebar, Burgas, Sozopol, Ahtopol)

Pleasant Bulgarian coastal towns, 20-40 NM apart, harbors every night.

Key Stops:

Balchik [QR-113] (55 NM from Constanța):

Charming town, botanical gardens, former palace
Small marina, €15-20/night
Bulgaria entry: Passport control at marina (15-30 min)

Varna [QR-115] (30 NM from Balchik):

Bulgaria's maritime capital
Varna Yacht Club, 150+ berths, €20-25/night
Last major city before Turkey
Excellent provisioning, repair [QR-116]
Weather staging - wait for perfect forecast for Turkey
City worth exploring [QR-117]
Recommended: 1-2 nights

Day 38: Bulgarian Coast to Turkey

Bulgaria Exit: Last port Ahtopol or Varna

Bulgaria-Turkey Maritime Border: Cross at sea (~20 NM from Turkish coast)

Yellow "Q" flag up

Do not stop/go ashore at Turkish port until officially cleared

TURKEY ENTRY - COMPLETE PROCEDURES

First Turkish Villages:

Kıyıköy, İğneada - small fishing villages
Can clear here (small customs) but most continue to Istanbul

RECOMMENDATION: Proceed to Istanbul (Ataköy Marina) for clearance