Captain's Log
📖 Pilot Bookfood

The Horse Sausage Rivalry

C
Captain's Log
·12 April 2026·11 min read

Leg 1.7: Dordrecht to Antwerp (65 NM - SPLIT)

Better: Dordrecht to Moerdijk (35 NM, 5 hours)

MOERDIJK, NETHERLANDS [QR-218]

  • Industrial port but safe overnight
  • Basic marina facilities
  • €25-35/night
  • Provisioning available

Then: Moerdijk to Antwerp (30 NM, 4-5 hours)

Navigation: Enter Belgium (still Schengen, no formalities)

ANTWERP (ANTWERPEN), BELGIUM [QR-219]

Marina: Willemdok Marina (city center)
Coordinates: 51°14'N, 4°24'E
Berth Cost: €45-60/night (expensive but central)
Facilities: Good, showers, WiFi, 10-minute walk to Old Town

City Character: Medieval + modern, diamond capital, Rubens' home, fashion hub, Flemish culture at its finest

Where to Eat & Drink:

☕ Breakfast: Normo [QR-220]

  • Vlaamsekaai 14
  • Specialty coffee, brunch
  • Cost: €10-18

☕ Caffènation [QR-221]

  • Hopland 38
  • Best coffee in Antwerp
  • Cost: €6-12

🍴 Lunch: Fiskebar [QR-222]

  • Marnixplaats 11
  • Seafood bar, Nordic-inspired
  • Super fresh, try fish & chips
  • Cost: €20-35

🍴 Lunch: Barnini [QR-223]

  • Graanmarkt 12
  • Italian deli, fresh pasta
  • Cost: €15-25

🍷 Dinner: The Jane [QR-224]

  • Paradeplein 1
  • 2 Michelin stars
  • Converted military chapel
  • Book 1-2 months ahead
  • Cost: €180-250 tasting menu

🍷 Dinner: Restaurant Dôme [QR-225]

  • Grote Hondstraat 2
  • Michelin-starred French-Belgian
  • Cost: €90-140

🍷 Dinner: 't Zilte [QR-226]

  • Hanzestedenplaats 5 (top of MAS museum)
  • 3 Michelin stars
  • Panoramic views
  • Book far ahead
  • Cost: €250-350

🍴 Casual: Pazzo [QR-227]

  • Oudeleeuwenrui 12
  • Excellent Italian, wood-fired pizza
  • Cost: €25-40

🍺 Evening: De Muze [QR-228]

  • Melkmarkt 15
  • Jazz bar, live music nightly
  • Belgian beers
  • Cost: €5-8

🍺 Kulminator [QR-229]

  • Vleminckveld 32
  • Legendary (700+ beers)
  • Vintage lambics
  • Cost: €6-20

🍷 Bar Paniek [QR-230]

  • Kloosterstraat 130
  • Natural wine bar
  • Cost: €8-15 per glass

What to See & Do:

Grote Markt (Grand Place) [QR-231]

  • Historic square, guild houses
  • Free, stunning architecture
  • Best early morning

Cathedral of Our Lady [QR-232]

  • Gothic cathedral
  • Four Rubens masterpieces
  • Entry: €8
  • Allow 45 minutes

Rubens House [QR-233]

  • Wapper 9-11
  • Artist's home (1610-1640)
  • Entry: €10
  • Allow 1.5 hours

MAS Museum [QR-234]

  • Hanzestedenplaats 1
  • Maritime trade history
  • Rooftop views (free!)
  • Museum: €12
  • Allow 2 hours

Royal Museum of Fine Arts (KMSKA) [QR-235]

  • Flemish Masters
  • Van Eyck, Rubens, Van Dyck
  • Entry: €15
  • Allow 2-3 hours
  • World-class

Diamond District [QR-236]

  • Near Central Station
  • DIVA museum: €10
  • Window shopping free

Plantin-Moretus Museum [QR-237]

  • Historic printing house (UNESCO)
  • Entry: €10

Sunday Antique Market [QR-238]

  • Lijnwaadmarkt
  • 9:00-13:00

Bike Rental [QR-239] - Velo bike-share, €1.50/30 min

Provisioning: Delhaize [QR-240], Carrefour [QR-241]

Stay 3-4 nights - Antwerp is magnificent


Leg 1.8: Antwerp to Dendermonde (30 NM, 4-5 hours)

Navigation: Follow Scheldt River upstream (south)
Character: Heading into Flemish heartland

DENDERMONDE, BELGIUM [QR-242]

Marina: Jachthaven Dendermonde (or town quay)
Coordinates: 51°02'N, 4°06'E
Berth Cost: €25-35/night
Facilities: Basic but adequate

Town Character: Historic Flemish town, horse meat tradition, Ros Beiaard folklore, authentic Belgium

THIS IS YOUR PERSONAL STOP - LOCAL FAVORITES!

Where to Eat & Drink:

🌭 Dendermonde Paardenworst (Horse Sausage) - MUST TRY [QR-243]

Slagerij Joris Van den Bossche [QR-244]

  • Brusselsestraat 55
  • Traditional butcher
  • Authentic paardenworst
  • Also try: Paardenrookvlees (smoked horse meat)
  • Cost: €8-12

🍺 't Paaird Pub [QR-245] - YOUR TRADITIONAL STOP

  • Grote Markt 29
  • Right on main square
  • Traditional Flemish pub
  • Perfect for paardenworst with beer
  • Try: Duvel, Westmalle
  • Cost: €4-7 per beer
  • Where locals gather after Ros Beiaard

🍷 't Cuisintje - Berlare [QR-246] - YOUR FAVORITE RESTAURANT

  • Dendermondsesteenweg 36, 9290 Berlare
  • 7 km from Dendermonde (15-min taxi/bike)
  • Family-run, excellent Flemish-Belgian cuisine
  • Warm atmosphere, quality ingredients
  • Reservations recommended
  • Cost: €35-55
  • Since you go every time, clearly special!

Getting to 't Cuisintje:

  • Taxi: €15-20 each way (arrange return with restaurant)
  • Bike rental: Available in town, flat route
  • Uber/Bolt: Available

☕ Breakfast: Taverne De Vlam [QR-247]

  • Grote Markt 24
  • Traditional café
  • Belgian breakfast
  • Cost: €8-15

🍴 Lunch: Brasserie Lamot [QR-248]

  • Kasteelstraat 1
  • In converted brewery
  • Regional cuisine
  • Cost: €20-35

What to See & Do:

Ros Beiaard (The Bayard Horse) [QR-249] - MAIN ATTRACTION

  • Grote Markt
  • Giant mechanical horse from medieval legend
  • Four Sons of Aymon rode magical horse Bayard
  • Procession only every 10 years (next: 2030)
  • But statue/monument visible year-round
  • Legend central to Dendermonde identity

Our Lady Church [QR-250]

  • Gothic church
  • Climb tower for views
  • Entry: €3

Dendermonde Museum [QR-251]

  • Local history, Ros Beiaard artifacts
  • Entry: €5

Saturday Market [QR-252]

  • Grote Markt
  • 8:00 AM - 1:00 PM
  • Local produce

Walk the Rivers [QR-253]

  • Scheldt and Dender confluence
  • Peaceful paths
  • Free

Provisioning: Colruyt [QR-254], Delhaize [QR-255]

Stay 1-2 nights - Authentic Flemish Belgium, your personal favorites make it special


Leg 1.9: Dendermonde to Ghent (20 NM, 3-4 hours)

Navigation: Via canal/waterway to Ghent
Character: Peaceful Flemish countryside

GHENT (GENT), BELGIUM [QR-256]

Marina: Portus Ganda Marina or Yacht Club Gent
Coordinates: 51°03'N, 3°44'E
Berth Cost: €35-50/night
Facilities: Good, 15-minute walk to center

City Character: Medieval gem, university city, vibrant without overwhelming tourism

BELGIUM'S BEST-KEPT SECRET

Where to Eat & Drink:

☕ Breakfast: Simon Says [QR-257]

  • Sluizeken 8
  • Specialty coffee, brunch
  • Canal-side terrace
  • Cost: €10-18

☕ Or-Coffee [QR-258]

  • Wijngaardstraat 9
  • Best coffee in Ghent
  • Cost: €6-12

🍴 Lunch: Balls & Glory [QR-259]

  • Jakobijnenstraat 6
  • Gourmet meatballs
  • Try: Gentse Stoverij meatballs
  • Cost: €15-25

🍴 Lunch: Souplounge [QR-260]

  • Zuivelbrugstraat 6
  • Soups, salads, healthy
  • Cost: €12-20

🍷 Dinner: Pakhuis [QR-261]

  • Schuurkenstraat 4
  • Brasserie in converted warehouse
  • Belgian classics, oysters
  • Cost: €35-55

🍷 Dinner: Publiek [QR-262]

  • Ham 39
  • Modern European
  • Excellent wine list
  • Cost: €40-65

🍷 Fine Dining: Vrijmoed [QR-263]

  • Vlaanderenstraat 22
  • Michelin-starred
  • Book ahead
  • Cost: €95-140

🍺 Evening: Dulle Griet [QR-264]

  • Vrijdagmarkt 50
  • Legendary (500+ beers)
  • Famous "Max" beer (1.5L, leave shoe as deposit!)
  • Cost: €5-12

🍺 Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant [QR-265]

  • Groentenmarkt 9
  • 100+ Belgian beers
  • Canal-side terrace
  • Perfect sunset spot
  • Cost: €4-8

🍺 Café Labath [QR-266]

  • Oude Houtlei 1
  • Student favorite, local vibe
  • Cost: €3-6

🍷 Bar Brutal [QR-267]

  • Prinsenstraat 5
  • Natural wine bar
  • Cost: €7-14 per glass

What to See & Do:

Gravensteen (Castle of the Counts) [QR-268]

  • Sint-Veerleplein 11
  • Medieval castle (12th century)
  • Torture museum, rampart views
  • Entry: €12
  • Allow 1.5 hours
  • Don't miss

Saint Bavo's Cathedral [QR-269]

  • Sint-Baafsplein
  • The Ghent Altarpiece - Van Eyck masterpiece (1432)
  • One of world's most important artworks
  • Entry: €12
  • Allow 1 hour
  • Absolutely essential

Graslei & Korenlei [QR-270]

  • Historic quays, medieval guild houses
  • Most photographed spot in Ghent
  • Free, sunset is magical

Belfry of Ghent [QR-271]

  • 91m medieval bell tower (UNESCO)
  • 366 steps, panoramic views
  • Entry: €10
  • Allow 45 minutes

STAM (City Museum) [QR-272]

  • Ghent's history
  • Interactive, well-done
  • Entry: €10
  • Allow 2 hours

Patershol District [QR-273]

  • Medieval neighborhood
  • Narrow streets, restaurants, galleries
  • Free to wander

Design Museum Gent [QR-274]

  • Art Nouveau to contemporary
  • Entry: €8
  • Allow 1 hour

Sunday Market [QR-275] - Bij Sint-Jacobs, 7:30 AM - 1:00 PM
Friday Vintage Market [QR-276] - Beverhoutplein, 8:00 AM - 1:00 PM

Evening Canal Boat Tour [QR-277] - 40 min, €9-12, romantic at dusk

Bike Rental [QR-278] - Very bike-friendly, €10-15/day

Provisioning: Delhaize [QR-279], Carrefour Express [QR-280]

Stay 1-2 nights - Many prefer Ghent to Bruges (less touristy, more authentic). Ghent Altarpiece alone worth the stop.


Leg 1.10: Ghent to Terneuzen, Netherlands (40 NM, 5-6 hours)

Navigation: Ghent-Terneuzen Canal - major commercial waterway
Locks: Large modern locks, follow lock master
Character: Back to Netherlands, heading toward coast

TERNEUZEN, NETHERLANDS [QR-281]

Marina: Jachthaven Terneuzen
Coordinates: 51°20'N, 3°50'E
Berth Cost: €28-38/night

Border town, industrial but friendly

🍴 De Kade [QR-282] - Waterfront brasserie, €25-40

Provisioning: Good supermarkets for stock-up

Stay overnight - Rest before coastal return


Leg 1.11: Terneuzen to Vlissingen (25 NM, 3-4 hours)

Navigation: Western Scheldt, back toward sea

VLISSINGEN (FLUSHING), NETHERLANDS [QR-283]

Marina: Michiel de Ruyter Marina
Coordinates: 51°27'N, 3°34'E
Berth Cost: €32-42/night

Historic port, Admiral Michiel de Ruyter's birthplace

🍴 't Waepen van Vlissingen [QR-284] - Historic restaurant, €35-50
Maritime Museum [QR-285] - Michiel de Ruyter history, €8


Leg 1.12: Vlissingen to Oostende, Belgium (45 NM - SPLIT)

Better: Vlissingen to Breskens (8 NM, 1.5 hours)

BRESKENS, NETHERLANDS [QR-286]

  • Marina: €30-40/night
  • Small port
  • 🍴 De Milliano [QR-287] - Fish restaurant, €30-50
  • Lighthouse walk [QR-288] - Sunset views

Then: Breskens to Oostende (35 NM, 5 hours)

Navigation: Back to North Sea coast, enter Oostende

OOSTENDE (OSTEND), BELGIUM [QR-289]

Marina: Royal Yacht Club Oostende (RYCO) or Mercator Marina
Coordinates: 51°14'N, 2°55'E
Berth Cost: €40-55/night
Facilities: Excellent, fuel, chandlery, repair facilities

City Character: "Queen of Belgian Beaches," resort town, fishing heritage, art scene, seafood capital, Belle Époque architecture

YOU WANTED EXTENDED TIME HERE - WITH GOOD REASON!

Where to Eat & Drink:

☕ Breakfast: Coffee Bru [QR-290]

  • Nieuwpoortsesteenweg 26
  • Specialty coffee, pastries
  • Cost: €8-15

☕ Café Botteltje [QR-291]

  • Sint-Sebastiaanstraat 11
  • Historic art café
  • Belgian waffles, hot chocolate
  • Cost: €6-12

🍴 Lunch: Taverne du Passage [QR-292]

  • Wapenplein 18
  • Traditional Belgian brasserie
  • Shrimp croquettes, eel, mussels
  • Cost: €20-35

🍴 Lunch: Belita [QR-293]

  • Albert I Promenade 70
  • Modern seafood bistro
  • Beachfront terrace
  • Cost: €25-40

🍷 Dinner: Bistro Mathilda [QR-294]

  • Sint-Franciscusstraat 32
  • Intimate, seasonal
  • Excellent wine list
  • Reservations recommended
  • Cost: €45-70

🍷 Dinner: Restaurant De Combutta [QR-295]

  • Koningsstraat 79
  • Traditional Flemish
  • North Sea sole, waterzooi
  • Cost: €40-65

🍷 Dinner: Villa Maritza [QR-296]

  • Albert I Promenade 76
  • Upscale seafood, beachfront
  • Belle Époque building
  • Try: Langoustines, turbot
  • Cost: €60-90

🍷 Fine Dining: Restaurant Bentinck [QR-297]

  • Kerkstraat 3
  • Michelin-starred
  • Book ahead
  • Cost: €95-140

🍺 Evening: Taverne Dikke Mathile [QR-298]

  • Louisastraat 8
  • Historic sailors' pub (since 1845)
  • 150+ Belgian beers
  • Cost: €4-8

🍺 Café-Brasserie Rubens [QR-299]

  • Van Iseghemlaan 110
  • Art Nouveau interior
  • Cost: €5-9

🍷 Wine Bar: Vinologia [QR-300]

  • Christinastraat 83
  • Natural wines, small plates
  • Cost: €7-14 per glass

🍺 Sunset Drinks: Café Den Artist [QR-301]

  • Wapenplein 22
  • Terrace overlooking harbor
  • Perfect aperitif
  • Cost: €6-12

What to See & Do:

The Beach Promenade [QR-302]

  • 3 km sandy beach
  • Belle Époque buildings
  • Walk, jog, bike
  • Free, sunset magical

Mercator Ship Museum [QR-303]

  • Mercatorsdok
  • Historic training ship (1932)
  • Explore the decks
  • Entry: €7
  • Allow 1 hour
  • Perfect for sailors!

Fort Napoleon [QR-304]

  • Vuurtorenweg 1
  • Napoleonic fort
  • Military museum, underground passages
  • Entry: €7
  • Allow 1.5 hours

Mu.ZEE (Modern Art Museum) [QR-305]

  • Romestraat 11
  • Belgian modern art
  • James Ensor, Léon Spilliaert (Oostende artists)
  • Entry: €10
  • Allow 2 hours
  • Excellent collection

James Ensor House [QR-306]

  • Vlaanderenstraat 27
  • Artist's family home
  • Entry: €5
  • Allow 45 minutes

Atlantic Wall Museum [QR-307]

  • Raversijdestraat
  • WWII German bunkers
  • Entry: €10
  • Allow 2 hours

Japanese Garden [QR-308]

  • Maria Hendrikapark
  • Peaceful traditional garden
  • Entry: €5
  • Perfect afternoon relaxation

Thursday Market [QR-309]

  • Wapenplein
  • Fresh produce, fish, cheese
  • 7:00 AM - 1:00 PM

Saturday Fish Market [QR-310]

  • Visserskaai
  • Fresh catch auction
  • 6:00 AM start
  • Free to watch

Bike Rental [QR-311]

  • Flat coastal paths
  • Cycle to Bredene, Middelkerke
  • €10-15/day

Beach Time [QR-312]

  • Sandy beach, beach clubs
  • Rent chairs: €8-15/day

Casino Oostende [QR-313]

  • Monacoplein 2
  • Gaming, shows
  • Dress code

DAY TRIP TO BRUGES [QR-314]

  • 15 minutes by train
  • Medieval city (UNESCO)
  • Chocolate, beer, canals
  • Train: €5 each way
  • Highly recommended

Provisioning: Carrefour [QR-315], Delhaize [QR-316], Thursday Market [QR-317]
Repair: Mercator Marina Services [QR-318], Belgian Marine Service [QR-319]

Stay 4-5 nights - Relaxed pace, excellent seafood, beach life, Belgian culture without Brussels crowds. This is where Belgians vacation.


STAGE 1 COMPLETE: Belgian Detour Summary

You've now completed the Belgian inland adventure:

✅ Rotterdam - Modern architecture
✅ Antwerp - Art, diamonds, Michelin dining
✅ Dendermonde - Your personal favorites (paardenworst, 't Paaird, 't Cuisintje)
✅ Ghent - Medieval beauty, Van Eyck's masterpiece
✅ Oostende - Extended beach stay

Belgian Detour Distance: ~250 NM
Time: 2-3 weeks
Cost Estimate (additional to main route):

  • Marinas: €350-500
  • Fuel: €200-300
  • Dining (you enjoyed good restaurants!): €800-1200
  • Museums/attractions: €150-250
  • Total Belgian Detour: €1,500-2,250

Worth every euro for the cultural immersion and personal favorites!


STAGE 2: FRENCH CHANNEL COAST

Oostende to Brest

Distance: ~350 NM
Duration: 2-3 weeks
Character: French coast, preparation for Bay of Biscay
Daily sailing: 3-5 hours, cultural stops


From From the Lights of Bifröst to the Dawn of Ionia · S/V Magische Pompoen.