Captain's Log
📖 Pilot Bookcruiser tale

Belgium to the English Channel

S
S/V Magische Pompoen
·14 April 2026·10 min read·Belgium

Leg 2.1: Oostende to Nieuwpoort (15 NM, 2-3 hours)

Short coastal hop

NIEUWPOORT, BELGIUM [QR-320]

Marina: Royal Yacht Club Nieuwpoort
Coordinates: 51°09'N, 2°44'E
Berth Cost: €35-45/night
Facilities: Excellent, largest marina in Belgium

🍴 't Kroontje [QR-321] - Belgian classics, moules-frites, €25-40
🍺 De Bokaalkoning [QR-322] - 80+ Belgian beers, €4-8
🍫 Chocolatier Dumon [QR-323] - Artisan Belgian chocolates

Westfront Nieuwpoort [QR-324] - WWI memorial, €8


Leg 2.2: Nieuwpoort to Dunkerque, France (25 NM, 3-4 hours)

Cross into France
Language: French begins

DUNKERQUE (DUNKIRK), FRANCE [QR-325]

Marina: Port du Grand Large
Coordinates: 51°03'N, 2°21'E
Berth Cost: €28-38/night

Historic: WWII evacuation (Operation Dynamo, 1940)

🍴 L'Estaminet Flamand [QR-326] - Flemish-French cuisine, €30-45
Dunkerque Museum [QR-327] - WWII history, €7


Leg 2.3: Dunkerque to Calais (30 NM, 4-5 hours)

Navigation: Busy ferry routes

CALAIS, FRANCE [QR-328]

Marina: Calais Marina
Coordinates: 50°58'N, 1°51'E
Berth Cost: €30-40/night

Gateway to England - Dover 21 miles across

🍴 Le Channel [QR-329] - French seafood, €35-50
☕ Café de Paris [QR-330] - Traditional French café
Cité de la Dentelle [QR-331] - Lace museum, €7


Leg 2.4: Calais to Boulogne-sur-Mer (25 NM, 3-4 hours)

BOULOGNE-SUR-MER, FRANCE [QR-332]

Marina: Port de Plaisance
Coordinates: 50°43'N, 1°36'E
Berth Cost: €32-42/night

France's largest fishing port - exceptional seafood

Where to Eat:

🍷 La Matelote [QR-333]

  • Michelin-starred seafood
  • Sea bass with champagne sauce
  • Reservations essential
  • Cost: €80-120

🍴 Chez Jules [QR-334]

  • Casual bistro
  • Moules-frites
  • Cost: €20-35

🥐 Pâtisserie Philippe Meilleur [QR-335]

  • Award-winning pastries
  • Tarte au citron meringuée
  • Cost: €4-7

What to See:

Nausicaá - National Sea Centre [QR-336]

  • One of Europe's largest aquariums
  • 60,000 marine animals
  • Entry: €31
  • Allow 3-4 hours
  • World-class facility

Old Town (Ville Haute) [QR-337]

  • Medieval walled city on hill
  • Ramparts, basilica
  • Free, stunning views
  • Allow 2 hours

Wednesday & Saturday Markets [QR-338] - Place Dalton, 8:00 AM

Stay 2 nights - Nausicaá alone worth it


Leg 2.5: Boulogne to Dieppe (70 NM - SPLIT)

Better: Boulogne to Le Tréport (35 NM, 5 hours)

LE TRÉPORT, FRANCE [QR-339]

  • Small port
  • Marina: €25-35/night
  • 🍴 Le Homard Bleu [QR-340] - Seafood, €25-40
  • Cliffs walk [QR-341] - White chalk cliffs

Then: Le Tréport to Dieppe (35 NM, 5 hours)

DIEPPE, FRANCE [QR-342]

Marina: Port de Plaisance
Coordinates: 49°56'N, 1°05'E
Berth Cost: €35-45/night

Historic Channel port

🍴 Le Newhaven [QR-343] - Seafood, harbor views, €35-50
Castle Museum [QR-344] - Medieval castle, maritime history, €5


Leg 2.6: Dieppe to Fécamp (35 NM, 5 hours)

FÉCAMP, FRANCE [QR-345]

Marina: Port de Plaisance
Coordinates: 49°46'N, 0°22'E
Berth Cost: €30-40/night

Famous for Benedictine liqueur

Palais Bénédictine [QR-346]

  • Art Nouveau palace, distillery
  • Liqueur tasting
  • Entry: €11.50 (includes tasting)
  • Unique, worth 2 hours

🍴 Le Maritime [QR-347] - Fresh fish, €30-45


Leg 2.7: Fécamp to Le Havre (40 NM, 5-6 hours)

LE HAVRE, FRANCE [QR-348]

Marina: Port de Plaisance (Bassin Vauban)
Coordinates: 49°29'N, 0°06'E
Berth Cost: €38-48/night

UNESCO World Heritage - Post-WWII reconstruction

Where to Eat:

🍷 Jean-Luc Tartarin [QR-349]

  • Michelin-starred
  • Innovative
  • Cost: €90-130

🍴 Le Grignot [QR-350]

  • Casual bistro
  • Tarte Normande
  • Cost: €25-40

What to See:

MuMa (Modern Art Museum) [QR-351]

  • Impressionist collection
  • Monet, Renoir, Pissarro
  • Entry: €8
  • Allow 2-3 hours

Perret Architecture Walk [QR-352]

  • Post-war concrete modernism (UNESCO)
  • Free, pick up map at tourist office

Les Jardins Suspendus [QR-353]

  • Botanical gardens in old fort
  • Entry: €3

Provisioning: Carrefour [QR-354]


Leg 2.8: Le Havre to Honfleur (8 NM, 1-2 hours)

Short hop across Seine estuary

HONFLEUR, FRANCE [QR-355]

Marina: Port de Plaisance
Coordinates: 49°25'N, 0°14'E
Berth Cost: €45-60/night (expensive but worth it)

One of France's most beautiful ports - Picture-perfect Norman town

Where to Eat:

🍷 SaQuaNa [QR-356]

  • 2 Michelin stars
  • One of Normandy's finest
  • Exceptional seafood
  • Book weeks ahead
  • Cost: €120-180

🍴 Le Bouillon [QR-357]

  • Casual, excellent
  • Sole meunière
  • Cost: €40-60

🥐 Boulangerie Paul [QR-358]

  • Historic bakery chain origin
  • Outstanding croissants
  • Cost: €2-5

🍺 Le Corsaire [QR-359]

  • Harborfront bar
  • Sunset drinks
  • Try: Calvados

What to See:

Vieux Bassin (Old Harbor) [QR-360]

  • Iconic harbor, colorful buildings
  • Painted by Monet, Boudin
  • Free, stunning especially sunset

Eugène Boudin Museum [QR-361]

  • Boudin, Monet, Impressionists
  • Entry: €8
  • Allow 1.5 hours

Sainte-Catherine Church [QR-362]

  • Largest wooden church in France
  • Built by shipwrights (15th century)
  • Free

Les Maisons Satie [QR-363]

  • Composer Erik Satie museum
  • Interactive
  • Entry: €6.50

Saturday Market [QR-364] - Place Sainte-Catherine, arrive 9:00 AM

Stay 2-3 nights - Honfleur is magical, deserves time


Leg 2.9: Honfleur to Deauville (10 NM, 1.5-2 hours)

DEAUVILLE, FRANCE [QR-365]

Marina: Port Deauville
Coordinates: 49°22'N, 0°04'E
Berth Cost: €50-70/night (expensive, upscale resort)

"Parisian Riviera" - Elegant resort, film festival

🍷 L'Essentiel [QR-366] - Michelin star, €85-120
🍴 Le Spinnaker [QR-367] - Beachfront brasserie, €35-55
🍷 Le Bar du Soleil [QR-368] - Beach bar, sunset cocktails, €12-18

Les Planches Boardwalk [QR-369] - Iconic wooden boardwalk, cabins named after film stars
Casino Barrière [QR-370] - Belle Époque (1912), dress smartly
Beach [QR-371] - 2 km sand, rent chairs €15-25/day

Deauville is expensive but glamorous - budget accordingly or skip for Cherbourg


Leg 2.10: Deauville to Cherbourg (90 NM - SPLIT INTO THREE)

Leg A: Deauville to Grandcamp-Maisy (30 NM, 4-5 hours)

GRANDCAMP-MAISY, FRANCE [QR-372]

  • Small fishing port
  • Marina: €25-35/night
  • 🍴 Le Bigouden [QR-373] - Scallops, oysters, €25-40
  • D-Day beaches nearby

Leg B: Grandcamp to Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue (30 NM, 4-5 hours)

SAINT-VAAST-LA-HOUGUE, FRANCE [QR-374]

  • Charming oyster port
  • Marina: €30-40/night
  • 🍴 La Mère Germaine [QR-375] - Famous oyster restaurant, €35-55
  • Tatihou Island [QR-376] - Walk at low tide, fort

Leg C: Saint-Vaast to Cherbourg (30 NM, 4-5 hours)

CHERBOURG, FRANCE [QR-377]

Marina: Chantereyne Marina
Coordinates: 49°38'N, 1°37'W
Berth Cost: €35-45/night
Facilities: Excellent, large marina

Major port, good provisioning

Where to Eat:

🍷 Le Pily [QR-378]

  • Michelin-starred
  • Modern French
  • Cost: €90-130

🍴 Café de Paris [QR-379]

  • Classic brasserie
  • Seafood platters
  • Cost: €30-50

🥐 Maison Fossey [QR-380]

  • Historic pâtisserie (1820)
  • Cost: €3-6

What to See:

Cité de la Mer [QR-381]

  • One of Europe's best maritime museums
  • Nuclear submarine Le Redoutable (you can enter!)
  • Aquarium
  • Entry: €21
  • Allow 3-4 hours
  • Genuinely excellent

Fort du Roule & Liberation Museum [QR-382]

  • WWII museum
  • Panoramic views
  • Entry: €6

Market Hall (Les Halles) [QR-383]

  • Victorian building
  • Fresh produce, cheese, seafood
  • Great for provisioning

Provisioning: Carrefour [QR-384], Auchan [QR-385]
Repair: Chantereyne Marine Services [QR-386]

Stay 2 nights - Cité de la Mer alone worth it, good provisioning before Brittany


Leg 2.11: Cherbourg to Saint-Malo (90 NM - SPLIT INTO TWO)

Leg A: Cherbourg to Carteret (45 NM, 6-7 hours - still long but manageable)

CARTERET, FRANCE [QR-387]

  • Small port, beautiful beaches
  • Marina: €30-40/night
  • 🍴 Le Douet [QR-388] - Seafood, €30-45
  • Beach walks, quiet

Leg B: Carteret to Saint-Malo (45 NM, 6-7 hours)

Tidal planning crucial - Saint-Malo has huge tidal range (up to 12m)

SAINT-MALO, FRANCE [QR-389]

Marina: Port des Bas-Sablons
Coordinates: 48°38'N, 2°01'W
Berth Cost: €40-55/night

Stunning walled city, corsair history

Where to Eat:

🍷 Le Chalut [QR-390]

  • Michelin-starred seafood
  • Refined preparation
  • Cost: €90-130

🍴 Le Corps de Garde [QR-391]

  • On city ramparts
  • Spectacular views
  • Coquilles Saint-Jacques
  • Cost: €40-65

🥞 Crêperie La Brigantine [QR-392]

  • Authentic Breton crêpes
  • Galette complète
  • Cider in traditional bowls
  • Cost: €15-25

🍺 Cunningham's Pub [QR-393]

  • Irish pub in old city
  • Live music
  • Cost: €5-8

What to See:

Intra-Muros (Walled City) [QR-394]

  • Walk the ramparts (2 km)
  • Stunning views
  • Free
  • Allow 2 hours
  • Essential experience

Fort National [QR-395]

  • Island fort (low tide access only)
  • Built by Vauban (1689)
  • Entry: €8, check tides

Grand Aquarium [QR-396]

  • Modern aquarium
  • 600+ species
  • Entry: €17

Île du Grand Bé [QR-397]

  • Tidal island, Chateaubriand's tomb
  • Walk at low tide
  • Free

Saturday Market [QR-398] - Intra-muros, 8:00 AM - 1:00 PM

Stay 2-3 nights - Saint-Malo is magnificent, rich with history


Leg 2.12: Saint-Malo to Brest (100 NM - SPLIT INTO TWO)

Leg A: Saint-Malo to Lézardrieux (50 NM, 7 hours)

LÉZARDRIEUX, FRANCE [QR-399]

  • Quiet river port
  • Marina: €25-35/night
  • 🍴 Auberge du Trieux [QR-400] - Traditional, €25-40

Leg B: Lézardrieux to Brest (50 NM, 7 hours)

Exposed north Brittany coast

BREST, FRANCE [QR-401]

Marina: Moulin Blanc Marina
Coordinates: 48°23'N, 4°25'W
Berth Cost: €35-50/night
Facilities: Excellent, full services

Major naval base, jumping-off point for Bay of Biscay

Where to Eat:

🍴 L'Armen [QR-402] - Modern French, seafood, €45-70
🍴 La Maison de l'Océan [QR-403] - Brasserie, seafood platters, €30-50
🥞 Crêperie du Port [QR-404] - Traditional Breton, €15-25

What to See:

Océanopolis [QR-405]

  • Massive ocean discovery park
  • Three pavilions: polar, tropical, temperate
  • 10,000 marine animals
  • Entry: €25
  • Allow 4-5 hours
  • One of Europe's best
  • Highly recommended

Tanguy Tower Museum [QR-406] - Brest history, free
Jardin Botanique [QR-407] - Botanical gardens, rare plants, free
Castle of Brest [QR-408] - Navy Museum, €7

Provisioning: Leclerc [QR-409], Carrefour [QR-410]
Chandlery: Uship [QR-411]
Repair: Brest Marine Services [QR-412], Atlantique Nautisme [QR-413]

Stay 2-3 nights - Océanopolis alone worth it, prepare for Bay of Biscay


STAGE 2 COMPLETE: Oostende to Brest

Distance: ~350 NM
Time: 2-3 weeks

Stage 2 Financial Summary:

CategoryCost (40ft, 2 people)
Marina fees (16 nights)€560-720
Fuel (350 NM)€450-550
Groceries€350-500
Dining out€550-800
Museums/attractions€150-250
Miscellaneous€100-200
TOTAL STAGE 2€2,160-3,020

STAGE 3: BAY OF BISCAY & ATLANTIC SPAIN

Brest to Gibraltar

Distance: ~850 NM
Duration: 3-5 weeks
Character: Choose your adventure - offshore or coastal


THE BAY OF BISCAY DECISION

You have TWO options:

Option A: OFFSHORE PASSAGE (Brest → La Coruña direct)

  • Distance: 320 NM
  • Duration: 48-60 hours non-stop
  • Pros: Fast, adventurous, real offshore sailing
  • Cons: Weather-dependent, can be rough, experienced crew needed
  • Best time: June-September, settled weather
  • Wait for: Light winds or favorable SW, avoid gales

Option B: COASTAL ROUTE (Brest → Ports along French & Spanish coast)

  • Distance: ~400 NM (more stops)
  • Duration: 5-7 days sailing, spread over 2-3 weeks
  • Pros: Safer, flexibility, see more ports
  • Cons: Slower, more marina fees

Most cruisers choose coastal route first time.

I'll provide both routes.


OPTION A: OFFSHORE PASSAGE

Passage Planning (Brest → La Coruña):

Weather Window Requirements:

  • Settled forecast 72+ hours
  • Winds < 20 knots (preferably 10-15)
  • Check: Windy.com, PredictWind

Preparation:

  • Full fuel tanks
  • Provisions for 5 days
  • Rest well before departure
  • Inform harbormaster

Safety:

  • Life jackets, harnesses, jack lines
  • AIS active, radar working
  • Watch system (3-4 hour shifts)
  • Emergency contacts filed

Navigation:

  • Cross Ushant TSS (very busy - 90° angle)
  • Stay clear of commercial traffic

Typical passage: Depart Brest dawn, sail SW then S, arrive La Coruña 2-3 days later.

Skip to La Coruña section if taking offshore route.


OPTION B: COASTAL ROUTE

From From the Lights of Bifröst to the Dawn of Ionia · S/V Magische Pompoen.